After traversing the Via Dolorosa, we made our way to the Jewish Quarter on
our way out of the city. In contrast to the chaos of the largely Arab Via
Dolorosa, it was the Sabbath, so the Jewish Quarter was pleasantly
peaceful.
One feature of the Jewish Quarter is a partial excavation of columns for the
old Roman cardo. In 135 CE, the Roman emperor Hadrian built the town of Aelia
Captiolina on the ruins of Jerusalem in keeping with Roman urban planning
conventions, and this general layout has largely persisted. The cardo
maximus was a main north-south street starting at the Damascus Gate and
featured roofed merchant stalls supported by stone columns - some of which have
been excavated and re-erected for display.
Near the Jaffa Gate is the Tower of David, a protective citadel whose
multiple foundation layers testify to destruction and reconstruction by a
succession of Jewish, Roman, Byzantine, Christian, Muslim and Ottoman
rulers.
Also by the Jaffa Gate is the traditional grave site for the two architects
of the existing wall who Suleiman the Magnificent had executed (as differing
legends have it) either as punishment for not including Mount Zion in the walls
or to prevent them from building anything as momentous for anyone other than
him.